NIGHT 360 PHOTOGRAPHY Tips & Tricks!

– This is
– Ben and Peter. – and today we’re in
– Brussels. – and this video is going to be about – Low light photography. – In 360
– Oh, yeah. – When you’re exposing your
images with a 360 camera, it’s not really that different than if you were exposing with a DSLR. – No, it isn’t, the only
issue is time probably, because you will have
to take a lot more time to make that correct exposure. – Yes, exactly, this is
where you’ll have to go into manual mode of your 360 camera and take control of parameters
like your shutter speed is the biggest one, as well as ISO. Most 360 cameras have the basic ability to go into manual mode and
change those two things, you can’t yet change
aperture with 360 cameras, – No.
– However, Peter can with his DSLR.
– Yes. – So I’m going to be shooting with point and shoot 360 cameras, Peter will be shooting with
his high end DSLR 360 rig. The most basic way to shoot
a 360 photo at night time is in auto exposure mode, where
you just turn the camera on, I’ve activated the self timer here, I’m gonna put it down on the ground, press the button and pose. This is a really basic way of doing it, but because we have such mixed
lighting in this environment, it’s not going to give
us perfect exposure, because the camera is essentially guessing how to expose this image. I’ve got to say, this photo
actually looks really good, I would be happy publishing
this on Instagram straight away, but you know what? I think I can get it even better. The issue I’m having here
is in the highlights, while it did expose the
shadows really nicely, the highlights are overblown
in a lot of the image, especially where we have bright lights around this environment, which is why I’m going
to go into HDR mode, so I can really expose
those lights perfectly, so they’re not gonna create
big spotlights in my image, they’re going to blend in and create more of a
harmonious, beautiful image. Wow, that is a whole lot better, you can see the bright lights behind me and all around me, you can
see them as circles now, it’s not just a blinding
flashlight all around, so HDR mode gave me an excellent exposure in this mixed lighting situation. A lot of 360 cameras have HDR mode, however if yours doesn’t, you may want to try shooting manually and blending different exposures together in a HDR software for computer. When shooting HDR, it’s always
a good idea to use a tripod, especially at night time,
because it’s going to automatically do say a
one or two second exposure and if the camera moved even this much, it’s going to completely blur
the image and ruin your photo. – Whatever Ben was doing,
I will try to replicate and do it at a much higher resolution and for that we need a DSLR camera, a DSLR camera is a little
bit more complicated to shoot 360s with, if we want
to expose this environment, then I’ll put the camera in manual mode and I’ll measure the lights first and whatever the numbers
will be, my ISO, my aperture and my shutter speed, I will fix them. I always shoot RAW, so no JPEG for me, it’s RAW and the advantage
of RAW, instead of JPEG is that you have much more control about the final quality of your image, there’s much more things that you can do like correct shadows or
the highlights or whatever. So what I’m doing right
now is measuring the light and the Pentax is actually
a very good one for that, I’ve put it ISO 800, ’cause it’s fixed and when I measure the light currently, then I can see that the camera will need 1.3 seconds as a shutter speed. When I put it in HDR mode, I
put it also in bracketing mode, that means that I will take a picture at minus two, zero and plus two EV, I can combine those images
by merging them in Photoshop or Lightroom or any other
software that can handle that and then you have the
perfect exposed image. It takes a bit longer than with a regular point
and shoot camera, of course. – A bit longer, Peter?
– Just a bit. – [Ben] How much is this bit? How many days?
– I’m not going to say days, if you take an image in one second and you edit it in a
Tiny Planet et cetera, yeah, you could take
an image in one minute, it takes at least an hour for me, but the quality is completely
different, of course. Alright, to make it really special, I’m going to use my magic pole and put it six meters up in the air again, but because it’s low light, there’s something special going on today, it’s these wires, they call it guy wires and what it does is it
stabilizes the pole at the top, if you don’t do that with low light, the pole will always
swing from left to right, because there’s wind, or
there’s anything going on here and this will prevent that,
it will stabilize the pole. – So feast your eyes on
greatness coming right now! – There’s a huge difference between a two second shutter speed, that you need at low
light conditions like now or if you do it during daylight, then maybe 1000th of a
second and that’s enough, so even if the camera is
moving, then it doesn’t matter, ’cause I don’t know how
long the exposure will take, well, I do know, because
I set it manually, but I don’t count it. I touch the pole and I
can feel the vibration, (laughing) it’s going to sound funny, you can feel actually the
mirror clicking up and down and then I know when it’s ready. – [Ben] You feel a vibration on your pole? – Yeah.
– I know that feeling, Peter, I know that feeling.
– It sounds too funny – I was having a chat
with Peter on Facebook the other day and he showed me one of the photos he took at nighttime inside a train station and
it was completely empty and then Peter told me, “You know what? “There were actually hundreds of people in this train station and I used a little magic
trick and made them disappear.” So Peter, how did you
achieve this magic trick? – Oh, now I need to explain my trick. Well, it’s pretty simple actually, when people are moving
and passing your lens, then with a long exposure,
they magically disappear, so the longer the exposure, the less people you will see in the image and it’s a trick that I used and that I will try to do
over again here in Brussels. – To illustrate this point, I’m going to photo bomb Peter’s photo, I’m going to run around like I’ve escaped from a mental asylum and you will see me disappear. Ooh! Woo! Woo! – [Peter] Yep, we got it, wanna see it? – Now that’s genius at work. Alright, we are done at that location, onto the next one.
– Yes! I’ve got something special for you. – Yeah, where are we going? -We’re going to the most
famous statue of Belgium. – Yeah?
– Yeah. – Sounds big and epic.
– It is, it is, – Yeah, yeah.
– you’re going to love it. – Alright, let’s go, okay.
– Yeah. – Alright, can’t wait to… – Okay, Tiny Planet
guy, what do you think? – I think you’re on your own.
– Alright. Let’s do this. – The next cool trick I’m
gonna show you how to do is called a light painting and this is where we put
our camera into manual mode and we use a handy flashlight and we paint pictures in the sky. To do this, you’ll need a 360
camera with manual exposure, where you’re able to
change the shutter speed of your camera, it’s a really simple idea, as we did before, we’re going
to need a slow shutter speed, to do a light painting, I
think you need a minimum of about five seconds, ideally about 10, so you have enough time to run
around with your flashlight, our flashlight is like our paintbrush, we can paint anything we want in the sky, we can do a pretty pattern,
you could do a thunderbolt, if you wanted or you can write something. I don’t think I’ve ever
gotten a light painting right on the first attempt, so you will need a lot of
patience to do this effect. So I’ve gone into manual mode right here and it’s always a good idea to keep your ISO as low as possible, this will avoid your image being too noisy in the darker areas and with our shutter speed, you want to change it
to five seconds plus, I’m going to do a test shot
right now at five seconds and see what the exposure looks like. If everything is exposed pretty well, I know that I’ve chosen the right settings to do my light painting,
so let’s give it a go. So looking at that, it
seems a tiny bit overexposed, you do wanna shoot in a
relatively dark environment, if you want to make the most
out of your light painting, because it means you’re gonna leave your shutter open for longer, therefore you have more
time to paint your picture, so I’m going to go down to
a four second exposure now and this is my first attempt
at painting in the air, I’m also gonna activate the self timer, because this is going to give me time to put my phone down out of shot, so I can get in position to start the first bit of the painting. I’m gonna try writing 360. It actually turned out okay, I don’t mind the exposure there, but my handwriting clearly needs work. So I’m going to try that again, but I’m going to keep my numbers smaller and I’m going to write
a bit higher in the air, so the light from the
torch conflicts a bit less with my archway here, three, two, one. Oh, getting there, getting
it, that looks really good, so I’ll try that one more time, except this time, I’m going
to angle the flashlight down, so the camera has a
better view of the light, it’s essentially like doing this at the moment it’s seeing this. Sometimes it can be a little hard to get your threes and
sixes the right way round, ’cause you have to write
everything in reverse. Yeah, that’s not bad, my
three is a little bit small, but I think it’s turned out well enough for you to get an idea of what you can do with this kind of effect. This is now where you
might wanna get creative and try all kinds of
cool patterns in the sky, so I’m just gonna do it,
I’m gonna wave this thing around like crazy and
just see what happens and there it is, not very artistic, but it’s given me some ideas
for some cool things I can do. Okay. (laughing) There we go, we have a goalpost, that turned out pretty cool. The key for light paintings is doing longer
exposures than four seconds, I know just the person to do that. Peter, what are we doing now? – Well, we’re going to
do also a little bit of light painting, but
from a higher distance. Okay, the DSLR is set up, it’s up there, we’re going to do an eight second exposure and Ben is doing the painting
with light, go for it. – [Ben] Photo bomber! Photo bomber! – We’re going to do a crazy
light painting of Ben, – We’re gonna turn Ben into an angel, just in case he wasn’t one already. – Two.
– He is. – [Peter] One. – Hey, that’s really good. – Well, Peter, it’s been
fun, where can they find you? – They can still find
me on – You can also find him here and find me here. Until next time, keep
capturing your world in 360, get out there, shoot some light paintings, shoot some long exposures at nighttime, because there’s a whole
new world of opportunity for your 360 photos and tiny planets And we will see you in the next video!

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